Vol. XXVI · No. 04 • Workshop Almanac
— The Everyday Handyman —
Est. MMXIX
Vol. XXVI · No. 04 • Workshop Almanac
Est. MMXIX
Gas, battery, or corded — the right chainsaw comes down to what you cut and how often. This buying guide covers bar length, engine displacement, chain pitch and gauge, and the safety features that matter, so you can pick a saw for pruning, storm cleanup, limbing, or felling and cutting firewood without over- or under-buying.
§ II — Reader’s Manual
A chainsaw is the one yard tool where the wrong choice is both frustrating and dangerous. Too little power bogs and pinches; too much is heavy and unsafe in casual hands. Here are the six things we weigh before recommending any saw in this guide.
Gas chainsaws deliver the most power for felling trees and cutting firewood, with no cord and long runtime — at the cost of noise, fumes, and two-stroke maintenance. Battery saws start instantly, run quiet, and shine at pruning and storm cleanup. Corded electric is the lightest, cheapest option for light yard work near an outlet.
A 14-to-16-inch bar handles pruning and limbing; 16-to-20 inches covers most firewood; 20 inches and up is for felling large trees. The rule of thumb: the bar should be about two inches longer than the widest log you cut regularly. A longer bar also demands more engine power and control.
Gas saws are rated in cc — roughly 30-40cc for homeowners, 50-60cc for pro felling. Battery saws run 40V to 80V; higher voltage means faster cuts and less bogging in hardwood. Buy enough power for your thickest, hardest wood, not your thinnest branch.
Chains come in different pitch and gauge — commonly .050 gauge on homeowner saws — and in low-kickback safety versus aggressive full-chisel styles. Match replacement chains to your bar, keep them sharp with the right file, and a modest saw will outcut a neglected big one.
Kickback is the leading chainsaw injury. Look for a chain brake, a low-kickback bar and chain, a front hand guard, and a throttle lockout. Pair the saw with chaps, gloves, and a face shield. No amount of horsepower is worth a saw without a working chain brake.
Gas saws need a fresh two-stroke oil mix, a clean air filter, a good spark plug, and bar-and-chain oil in the reservoir. Battery saws need charged packs and spares for long jobs. Budget for extra chains, bar oil, and either fuel or batteries before the first storm hits.
Read the guide. Then close the tab, walk away, and come back to it tomorrow. The tools that still feel right after a night’s sleep are usually the right ones to buy.
§ II — Specimen Pages
§ II — Specimen Pages
Every recommendation here is also a set of saws we chose to leave off. Below are the kinds of chainsaws we have stopped recommending — not for one brand’s sake, but because the type rarely serves a homeowner well.
A disposable saw with a plastic bar nose and a chain you cannot buy anywhere bogs in anything thicker than a broom handle. For real limbs and firewood, choose a serviceable gas or high-voltage battery saw you can re-chain.
A 20-volt trimmer-grade saw will drain, overheat, and pinch in a hardwood trunk. Match voltage and bar length to the wood; do not ask a pruning saw to fell a tree.
When the carburetor, fuel line, or clutch fails, an orphan brand strands you. Buy a saw whose bars, chains, and tune-up parts are stocked at a nearby dealer or hardware store.
Skipping the single most important safety feature to save a few dollars is never worth it. If a saw lacks a chain brake and low-kickback chain, walk away.
A 60cc felling saw is heavy, loud, and dangerous for trimming shrubs. Over-buying tires your arms and raises kickback risk. Size the saw to the job, not the fantasy.
A flimsy combo that converts between pole saw and chainsaw usually cuts poorly in both modes. A dedicated pole pruner and a dedicated chainsaw cost about the same and actually work.
§ IV — Directory
One email, every Sunday. New tool reviews, the best tip of the week, and a single recommendation from the editors. No clutter.
